Antigua, Guatemala

It’s been five years since we’ve travelled outside of Canada. Several moves, a major renovation, a pandemic, a dissected aorta, an aging and ailing cat all conspire to keep us close to home. So when Brent & Heather suggest Christmas in Playa del Carmen we are spurred to add a month in Guatemala. As a bonus the trip is a retirement gift for Craig.

But it is with a bit of trepidation that we book flights and hotels, wondering if we’ve lost our wanderlust. Have we grown roots too deep? Are we still able to go with the flow of venturing into the unknown? How will we handle the inevitable glitches that travel presents? Can we still call ourselves travellers? Guess we’ll find out.

A middle of the night trip to the Kelowna airport (thanks Ron & Sue!), flights to Vancouver, then Houston, then Guatemala City, an hour taxi ride… 15 hours of travel in all … and here we are in Antigua, Guatemala. It’s the old capital, “antigua” meaning ancient. After a series of destructive earthquakes and volcanic eruptions in the 18th century the government moved from here to Guatemala City.

Like so many colonial cities in Latin America, Antigua’s many churches, cathedrals and administrative buildings are architecturally baroque, although many are in ruins and a few under repair. Damage caused by the 1979 earthquake led to Antigua’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the beginning of restoration work.

Antigua is small, just 60,000 inhabitants, making it very walkable and safe. The main economic driver is tourism and in particular Spanish language schools. So even though there are a fair number of gringos in town, we mostly hear Spanish being spoken. Forces us to practice!!

The climate is often referred to as “eternal spring”. Days are pleasantly warm and nights are tolerably cool. At just 14 degrees latitude and this close to the equator it should be hot as Hades but the mile-high altitude keeps it springlike year round. We’re here at the end of the rainy season, it is lushly green and dotted with the colourful blooms of flame trees, jacarandas, hibiscus, bougainvilla, roses (a major export), oleander, lantana, bird of paradise, calla & canna lillies, and poinsettias, to name just a few. A gardener’s paradise!!

The rows of colourfully painted one and two story attached bungalow type dwellings we see here are typical for central America. Many have leafy courtyards that are only visible when the doors are open. The nicer ones are full of flowers and some even have fountains. So picturesque!!

Our hotel, the Cacique Real (translates as Royal Indian Chief??!!), is a basic 3-star that was once a convent. It’s been thoughtfully decorated in the regional style (important to Craig, he hates staying in generic chain hotels) and the rooms are arranged around a garden courtyard. The reception staff are mostly young men who could not be friendlier or more helpful, especially Gabriel, who we call an angel. The location is a bit away from el centro so it is quiet but just a 10 minute walk to the main square. It’s a winner!! https://www.tripadvisor.es/Hotel_Review-g295366-d23838750-Reviews-Cacique_Real_Hotel-Antigua_Sacatepequez_Department.html

With the luxury of a week to explore Antigua we take the first day slowly, meandering the streets, getting our bearings, finding an ATM, scouting out restaurants, window shopping and taking lots of photos. Craig’s iPhone says we took 22,000 steps but my shorter stride and more frequent ventures into shops put me well over that. And whereas I’d thought the altitude might tire us out it’s the cobbled stone streets that are hard on the feet and calves. Makes for a great sleep!!

We spend a day with Jose & Favio, a guide & driver, touring nearby villages and fincas (country estates) around Antigua, learning about the cultivation of bananas, avocados, macadamia nuts & coffee. Jose knows the best spots for photos of the three volcanos that ring Antigua’s valley: Agua, Acatenango & Fuego. The most active, Acatenango, belches a plume of grey smoke & ash several times a day and we’re told that at night it is sometimes possible to see fire and lava eruptions.

An early morning tuk-tuk ride – bone rattling on cobblestone streets – takes us up to Cerro de la Cruz, hill of the cross. Overlooking the city, the lookout has great views of one of the volcanos. It’s a bit hazy for photos but that doesn’t stop us from trying to capture the grandeur of the scenery. And the walk down through a pine forest is a nice reprieve from the busy streets. As is a late breakfast on a rooftop terrace with views of the cathedral.

The many restaurants feature food from all over the world, with an emphasis on southern Mexican cuisine. Lots of rice & beans. Chili sauces, cilantro & hot peppers. Tortillas. All washed down with Gallo, the local beer, a refreshing lager. We eat at high-end gourmet places, local cafeterias and everything in between. Maybe it’s the Dukorol or maybe the hygiene is better than it looks, but we’ve yet to experience any travellers’ trots.

Christmas preparations are well under way in this very Catholic (90% of the population) country. Santas, fake snow & reindeer, angels, decorated trees, carols sung in Spanish juxtaposed with palm trees, sunshine and 25 degree temperatures seem out of place and do not put us in the spirit of the season. A bizarre exhibition of miniature nativity scenes is just creepy but the locals seem entranced. What the heck … Feliz Navidad!!

Antigua is so encantadora – enchanting – that we wonder if the rest of our Guatemalan destinations will pale in comparison. It is hard to imagine a place more alluring. Will Santiago de Atitlan, our next stop, disappoint? Guess we’ll find out.