We fly from San Pedro to San Ignacio, a town on the western border of Belize, close to Guatemala. Our resort, Black Rock, is off the grid, on a river, in the jungle. We are greeted by greenery, tropical flowers and colourful toucans.
Being November, it is the rainy season and we are in the rain forest. The wettest day keeps us indoors, playing Scrabble and reading. Anthony Duerr’s “All the Light We Cannot See”, a Pulitzer Prize winning novel about the end of the second world war is great company.
We spend a day in San Ignacio for lunch, a bit of shopping and a visit to an iguana sanctuary.
Our last night is a bit terror-filled. Craig awakens me at about 2 AM. A creepy chanting noise fills the otherwise quiet night. Are we close to a church, we wonder? Are there anti-tourism terrorists coming down the road with machetes? WTF? After a half hour it is suddenly again quiet.
The next morning we ask the staff about the chanting and are told it was howler monkeys. No, no, we insist. It was not a sound that animals could make. They stick to their story. Intending to prove them wrong I go to utube and find a recording of howler monkeys. Sure enough. Same sound as our middle of the night symphony. As we are leaving the main lodge they make an appearance in the trees. And start their howling, as if to make a point to us.